• DeGroff
  • Rear - RPA
  • Front - Rich Schuster elevation adjustable front sight base
  • Front - Tompkins level sight

  • .308
  • 26 inch Krieger
  • MANIFOLD: Krieger

  • Jewell
  • BUTTSTOCK: Medesha
  • GRIP: DeGroff
  • FOREND: Medesha Free Float Tube
  • FOREND RAIL: DeGroff - see text
  • HANDSTOP: Medesha

  • 'Clyde' started life as a stock Eagle Arms AR10 and has since morphed into a pig that weighs in at 16.5 lbs. unloaded. Not only has he gained weight but has grown to over 52" long and just fits into his case for transport. I started this project because I dont like to operate a bolt action, I hate reloading them lil-bitty 223 cases, and I love having a lot of time to admire the sight picture in the rapid strings that a rifle like this affords me. Did I mention that when I shoot an AR15 all you can see is the front sight? Anyway .. presented here in some sequence, is how the transformation began from a stock rifle, and how I solved some problems encountered.

    The Jewell trigger was probably the first thing I bought and was ordered the second time I pulled the factory trigger. I don't like it but I have not had experience with any other that is better for this setup, but it is light years ahead of the factory stock trigger.

    The buttstock was the last thing I bought. Scott Medesha makes some really cool stuff for the ARs and this flip up assembly is the best and I wish I would have bought it second over two years ago. The rear knob is the height adjustment and the front knob is the tension. You will notice the charging handle is a little shorter on one side than the other. It was modified to clear the flip-up cheek piece when needed. Running the charging handle in off-hand position is not a problem. Take the shot, put the gun on the stool, flip the cheek rest. Now hook your thumb over the remaining portion of the handle with the gun resting on your stool and cocking it is no problem. (see pic)

    The magazine needs to be shortened to meet the rules as pointed out in the other rifle posts. My solution was to remove the middle of the magazine with my brother's cut off power chop saw. I spot welded it together, ground the welds to clear so it would drop free w/o the bolt being closed, and drove on. No beauty queen here but a functional magazine that I didn't have to mess around with bending flaps etc. (see pic)

    The long float tube is a Medesha part. Another great product that will impress you when you take it apart to install the new Krieger barrel you will eventually want to order. Under the tube you will see what I call an "Elevation Asset".

    The 'elevation asset' is a forearm I salvaged from an old 22 match rifle stock. The accessory rail is inlayed and bolted to the unit and it is bolted to the tube. This very effectively fixed my elevation problems stemming from my oversize build. A Medesha handstop w/ quick disconnect fits the slot.

    The 6" bloop tube is a Medesha part with it's adaptor. A Rich Schuster elevation-adjustable front sight base is topped off with a Tompkins level sight. There are several things that are done to this unit to harden it. The sight is drilled and tapped and screwed to the sight base tower. The vertical alignment pins are staked on both ends of the sight mounting base. I have run a few of these tubes and for whatever reason all that stuff out there seems to shake loose without extreme preventative measures. The leading edge of the sight was passed over emery paper on the bench to give a non glare reference ring amongst all that black out there.

    The RPA is the second sight, I sent the PNG back. The Centra adjustable iris will probably also be replaced in the future. The Centra replaced a high dollar Gehman with all the filters and diopters etc that would give me two and three bull's eyes from internal reflections when the sun was at the correct angle behind me.

    In teh detail pic of the buttstock, you will see the cheek piece rotated out of the way for operation of the charging handle. You can't see it, but the bottom sight position mounting hole screw adapter/filler and the vertical top mounting plate on the RPA are epoxied into place. It was lock-tited but worked over to the left and out of position over the course of a few hundred rounds. I also saw it happen at Camp Perry during the nationals in 2002. My shooting partner shot his sighters and were off really badly. Long story short, we found that the adaptor slid over to the side and killed his windage zeros.

    The factory pistol grip is hopeless. I tried to use surgical tubing wrapped around that stock grip for a year or so. Nick Takas gave me a hunk of laminated wood two years ago that I painstakingly inletted and have since been 'knawing' on it to get it to its present shape. After two years, I have almost gotten it to where it needs to be. It works well and is worth the work if you have hands like mine that are almost a foot across.

    The other accessories I pack for the range include a brass deflector designed from a copy of Wayne Kelly's design. It works well but is a little bulky. I never took the time to refine it cause if it ain't broke I don't take the time to fix it now. It is carried uninstalled in the case and the Allen wrench for it is to the right. The cut off magazine is the one I use for offhand and slow prone. The red wrench on the right stays with the gun and has all the wrenches on it to adjust the machine.

    What I've learned and future changes.

  • The next Krieger barrel will be fluted to save some weight
  • I will probably step up and buy a Warner rear sight
  • Refining and lightening the Elevation Asset

    Some Suggestions:

    1. Do not use a light carrier spring. I did, and it worked fine until winter time. The bolt would sometimes not go completely into battery and unfired rounds came out of the gun with dimpled primers. This is not good. I would have been sick if a round fired out of battery and destroyed my gun and worse if someone or myself would have been hurt.

    2. I would not recommend handling a standard AR and trying to devine or imagine how a match rifle would feel and perform. From experience I can testify, a stock unmodified AR10 in NO way feels or operates like a fully tricked-out race-modified AR10 match rifle

    3. If you are going to use an AR based gun to build a match rifle, try an AR15 match setup first, and then try an AR10 match rifle.

  • Loads - 155 SMK Moly, 42.5 gr. H4895, WW 308 cases, Win primers, assembled on a Dillon 650, using Wilson and Sinclair case prep, Redding bushing S die, Redding Comp seater. Shoots: <1" open sight groups at 100 when I do my part.

  • Ron DeGroff
  • eMAIL:Ron DeGroff

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